Pick a date!

You can’t predict the future, but you need to start somewhere. Retiring at 65 is no longer the default. Your target age should stem from your values, so revisit or define them.

Ten years out

This is a time to get a reality check on your financial life and start to envision what retirement will be like.

• Time to take a basic retirement planning class. Look to your local community college, retirement system pension planners, or professional organizations. You’re not trying to become an expert or nail down your plan. But you are trying to figure out what you need to know and what you need to think about.
• How much money have you saved in a 401(k), 403(b) or other retirement account?  Do you need to save more?  Will you need to work longer?  Do you need to adjust your allocations to make them more aggressive or (more likely) conservative
• Will you get a pension? When will you reach the vesting requirements?  How much will you receive? How will it be paid out? In a lump sum, monthly, etc.?)
• Do you have a copy of your Social Security statement? How much can you expect to receive?
• What other assets and investments can contribute to your retirement? Are there any potential drains on your income?
• Start having conversations with your close friends and family members about your vision for your “retirement.”  How do you want to spend your time?  What skills might you want to keep using in part-time or volunteer work?

 Five years out

• Revisit the questions from 10 years out.
• This is a good time to start a journal. Take some of those daydreams you put away and make them more specific. For example, rather than “spend time with grandkids,” you might write “spend two dinners a week with grandchildren.”

 Two years out (or less)

Time to get serious.

1. Make sure your partner/spouse is involved, if you have one and they aren’t already. Communicate and negotiate with them about how you expect to spend your days and money.
2. Hire a financial planner if you haven’t already done so. You want a fiduciary. The Financial Planning Association is a great place to find one.
3. Create a realistic budget. Figure out if you’ll need to work for income or where you may need to cut back on expenses.
4. Figure out when you’ll take Social Security, whether and when you will sign up for Medicare, etc.
5. Turn that “stake in the ground” into a real retirement date. Put a date in the calendar to retire, whether you share this with your employer or not.
6. Get more specific about how you’ll spend your newly found time.

 I often say it’s not about the plan, it’s about planNING. Life happens. Mid-flight corrections are necessary, and you can’t schedule those.  But following this schedule will help minimize the changes and the surprises.

Take the pressure off!

You do not have to have all of the answers now, so start by separating the financial part from the how-to-pass-the-time part. I often tell clients who are “stuck” on how to begin planning for retirement to focus on the first three years and then on the last three years. This takes the stress out of a big question like, “What the heck am I going to do for 20-30 years?!”

For the first three years, write down the collection of projects you want to get done. This often leads to a very satisfying feeling of purpose and direction. It’s like you’re still working, but you’re working on the stuff you want to work on and have been putting off. I’ve had clients travel for a year, remodel homes and take care of grandchildren, to name a few.

Then write down your ideal last three years, which are also usually easy to envision. These are typically slower, easier, quieter. This part also comes with specifics, such as:

• where you’ll live,
• who you’ll rely on for companionship and support,
• how you’ll want to manage your physical slow-down,
• how you want to be cared for and who will take care of you, and
• how you’ll feel at the end of each day

This process helps you figure out how much money or assets you need to set aside to meet these criteria, which will help build the financial part of your retirement plan.

Now for the years in between. I recommend making a list of the skills you want to keep using. This will likely have far fewer specifics than the first or last three years. That’s fine. For instance,

• I’ve had teachers that want to continuing teaching, so they consider tutoring.
• Those leaving executive positions find there are all kinds of nonprofit boards looking for expertise in leadership, development and managing a budget without having to manage employees.
• Some people enjoy mentoring others and find places to create those relationships.
• Talk to others who have retired. Keep your networks going with people who are or are not in the workforce. You don’t need to know exactly what you want to do, but it’s helpful to identify those skills of which you are most proud, most willing to “give away,” and most likely to energize and satisfy you.

In my experience, most people take two to three years to settle into a “retirement groove.” They tackle all of their projects early on, then they hit the end of that list and it takes a while to figure out how to spend their days. Even those who have done a “whole lotta nothin’” in the first year of retirement realize they want to make a change in how they spend their time. This is typical and normal. I also find it takes two to three years for the budget to work itself out. Rest assured, both how to spend time and how to spend money do work out. And both begin with figuring out how to spend the first three years and how to spend the last three years.

Put your attention on your weekly money

What you want to do now is physically separate your money into different buckets.  Here’s what you do next:

1. Set up multiple accounts at your bank.  Most of the bigger institutions will let you set up multiple accounts for free if you automatically transfer money into them each month (which you will).  Nickname these accounts.
    
2. The first account is your “static account” (call it whatever you want).  All income is deposited here.  Leave money there to meet static expenses.  The rest gets transferred to your “discretionary” accounts and your “savings” accounts.
    
3. Only money for the week gets transferred from the static account into the discretionary account.  Make an agreement with your financial partners (if you have them) as to who is going to get how much.  Each person should get a debit card.  Each person spends that money through the debit card. No credit cards.  Pay your static expenses with a credit card if you want the miles. Use the static account to pay off the credit card, but ONLY for those expenses.
    
4. IMPORTANT POINT:  Get enough money only for the week.  Not the month.  If you spend all your money by day 5 of the week, you can limp along for two days without money.  But if you run out of money on day 15 of the month, two weeks is too long to go without money.  Putting your attention in weeks also helps you focus on what you’re doing.  You will be more present.
    
5. Transfer money automatically each month into your “vacation”, “kitchen remodel”, etc. accounts at a set amount (nickname the accounts as such).  For instance, $50 into the vacation, $200 into the kitchen remodel, etc.
    
6. Watch what happens.  

Here’s what I hear from people who have actually done this:  People start to turn it into a game.  They start to see where they could reduce their static expenses.  They start to contemplate whether they really want that new grill (or purse or pair of shoes) or if they’d rather add that money to their “kitchen remodel” account.  They watch their static expenses shrink, they get more present with their decision-making around the discretionary money, and they love to watch their “kitchen remodel” accounts grow.  It’s a game. It’s fun.  It requires little accounting, as most of it’s done automatically.  You don’t have to watch every penny.  You don’t have to know how to use Quickbooks.  Brilliant.  If you have success, I would love to hear your stories.

For many, this strategy isn’t working, either right now or ever.  Those folks need to watch where their money is going.  I’ve long believed the trick to getting started, leave alone getting it right, is to make it easy and fun.  I think I might have found it.  Now, I stick to my inclination not to work with folks on budgeting, bail-outs and bad attitudes, but I’m always willing to share strategies that work.

Think of your money in three buckets—static, discretionary, and future

I will start with an admission:  I don’t actually budget the way I’m about to describe.  I’m stealing this idea from a Financial Planning Association conference I just attended (my whole life is continuing education).  I’m one of those freaky people that keeps track of just about every expenditure, tracks it in Quickbooks with help of my assistant, and analyzes where money is being spent, where it can be saved, etc.  Most people won’t do this, so I rarely, if ever, recommend it. 

What I like about this idea is that it’s easy and fun.  This step should take no more than an hour.  Here’s what you do:

1. Get out the last six months’ worth of statements that contain your expenses (checking, credit cards, etc.).  Six months is required for homeowners, in particular, so it catches semi-annual expenses.  You might want to add other annual expenses.
    
2. Add up all the expenditures and withdraws (ATM withdraws included). Divide by 6.  This is what you’re spending per month.
    
3. Now, go through those statements and identify all your “static” expenses – that is, those that happen every month as a result of passed decisions you have made.  Those expenses include the mortgage(s), property taxes, insurances, car payments, utilities, other loan payments (including credit card interest), childcare expenses (not random babysitting), etc.  Add them up.
    
4. Everything else is discretionary.  Subtract “static” from total expenses.  Remember to keep your timeframe to monthly numbers.  That’s your discretionary budget.  Divide by 4.5 (or so).  That’s your weekly discretionary budget.
    
5. Now sit down and decide what you want or need to save for.  These things could be a kitchen remodel or new clothes or a vacation.  Some folks will add to this quarterly tax payments or annual payments like life insurance premiums.

Here’s what you’ve done.  You’ve gotten a clear picture of how much money you are spending as a result of passed decisions.  That’s your static bucket.  You’ve gotten a clearer picture of what you’re spending week-to-week on food, clothes, household goods, extra babysitting, pet expenses, etc.  You’ve gotten clear about what you want to do with your money. This may take some tweaking along the way, but you’re on your way.  See next week’s post on what to do next.

I had to laugh the other day, though, when a post requested a referral to a financial planner who “could explain all the options for paying for college that people use.”  This person wanted unbiased advice and essentially the a la carte menu of possibilities. That would be a little like me walking into the paint store and saying, “I just want to see all the colors people use to paint their walls.”  Have you ever seen how many colors there are, how many different shades of the same color, and how many brands of paints?  That’s before you get to oil or acrylic.  Don’t get me started on brushes. And have you ever taken a sample of favorite paint home from the store, put it on the wall and hated it?  This original poster would have been better off with a survey.

Your advisor should advise YOU.

Here are the many ways I’ve seen college get funded:

• Kid decides not to go to college or not to go right away.
• Kid decides to live at home and attend two-year college.
• 529 plans.
• Paying out of income as the child goes to college.  In other words, not using savings at all.  (Heck, in one instance, the family’s annual tuition expense went down when the kid left a private high school and went to a state university and the family bought a new car.)
• Brokerage and investment accounts.
• Grandparents or other family members paid for it.
• Scholarships.
• Work-study programs.
• Loans.  (Remember, you can borrow for education but not retirement)
• Life insurance cash values.
• Investment properties (either selling them or using rental income).
• Inheritances and inheritance advances.

I could go on.  My point is that there is no right way to do this, you need someone who can listen to you, understand your values and know who you are, and help you navigate among the many options with a presentation of the beauties and pitfalls of each. That’s what good advisors do:  they listen well, they have opinions, they articulate them, and help their clients come to their own decisions about their financial lives.  This is why good advice is worth it.  It saves you time, money, anguish and agony.  A strategy for college funding is not always easy to just paint over.  Make sure you get as good of a look as you can at the start.

Plan first, tools second, revisit often.

This adage applies to life insurance probably more than any other tool in your financial planning toolbox.  In most cases, you bought it with the intention of keeping it for 20 years or more.  A lot of life happens in five to 10 years, let alone 20.  One of the biggest changes during that time is your own maturity – your thoughts and values change, your needs change, and your desire for security changes.  What made perfect sense and what got your attention 5, 10, or 20 years ago is probably quite different than what you would notice and pay attention to today.  And while you’re going about your life, the insurance industry has probably introduced new products and stopped selling others.

Remember to go back to your plan and then look at the tools (products) you’re using to make those plans happen.  Evaluate whether a particular financial tool is still a viable part of that plan or no longer serving you.  A life insurance review would be valuable.  Most life insurance agents will do these for “free” as a way to sell you something else.  Find an ethical one who will give you an honest answer, even if it means losing a commission.  For life insurance, consider these questions:

• What might I need life insurance for?
• Do I have people who are financial dependent on me?  For how much longer?
• Does the policy I have any cash value?
• How is my health?
• How much do I need?
• How might I use life insurance to meet multiple financial planning needs?  (long-term care, cash reserves, retirement income supplementation, college education funding, etc.)
• How might I use pre-tax dollars to meet those premiums?
• What is the value of my estate and how much might my heirs have to pay in estate taxes?

Once you’ve explored some of these questions in present time, your answers from years ago may have changed.  If so, time to choose a new tool.

What your 401(k) advisor likely won’t tell you

The book makes some excellent points about 401(k)’s that are worth noting:

1. 401(k)’s were designed to supplement employer pension plans. When employers realized they could save buckets of money by offering only 401(k) plans, pension plans went by the wayside.
    
2. Not surprisingly, a whole new industry of “401(k) plan advisors” cropped up because advisors could make a bucket of money for putting these plans “under management.” These plans are structured to benefit the institutions and advisors who administer them and the government.  Not you.
    
3. The investment options are usually painfully limited, and the advisor available to you is around maybe once or twice year.  In some plans, you can change your investment allocation only once a year.
    
4. 401(k)’s lack liquidity.  If you access the money before you are 59-and-a-half years old, you pay a 10% penalty.  Sure, you can pull it out for medical emergencies, education or to buy a house.  But most people need it when they are unemployed or in some other financial crisis, which isn’t exempt from the 10% penalty.
    
5. Some employers won’t let you shut down your 401(k) unless you quit your job.
    
6. 401(k) investments are often limited to stock market investment choices and most people don’t have the expertise or the time to research the choices.  The stock market volatility can be a killer, and most people are fully exposed.
    
7. Employers can modify, suspend, or eliminate the company match anytime they want.
    
8. If you borrow against your 401(k) and your employment is terminated for any reason, you usually owe the money back in 90 days.  Or pay the taxes and penalty.
    
9. Administrative fees can easily exceed 3%. If you only take 2% off the top, it can cut your long-term return in half.  If hypothetically, if the administrator invests its 3% from your $8K contribution to your 401(k), in 40 years, the administrator would have more money.  Whose retirement are you funding?
    
10. You’re sold on this story:  Save money in your 401(k) now to get a tax benefit, and then when you retire, you’ll take money out in a lower tax bracket.  The story’s unlikely to be true.  First, I believe tax rates are going up.  But even if they don’t, you’ve likely lost all the deductions you had while contributing to the 401(k) like the deduction for mortgage interest, your dependents, and your 401(k) or IRA contribution.  Those have likely disappeared by the time you retire.
     
11. The government is ALWAYS your 401(k) partner. The bigger your account gets, the bigger the government’s share.  Whose retirement are you planning?
     
12. If you die owning a 401(k), your heirs could get as little as 27% of it after taxes.

  There is a better way.  Let’s talk.
 

Even a broken clock is right twice a day

Look at predictions this way:  It’s everyone’s chance to put their hat in the ring in the game of “I told you so.”  That’s all.  Somebody is going to get bragging rights at the end.  I often tell my clients that my crystal ball is as good as theirs.  I might be more educated or more experienced or more articulate about it, but it’s really just as good as anyone else’s.   Remember, past performance is not a predictor of future results.  Just because someone’s gotten it right in the past doesn’t mean that person gets it right this time around.

There are many folks out there saying the S&P is going to be up substantially within the next two years.  Time to throw all your money into the stock market, right?  Not so fast.  The last “secular bear markets”—that is, those extended periods of time since 1906 in which the market has ultimately been down from the beginning of that period to the end—have averaged about 15 years.  We’re about 10 years into this secular bear market.  Understand that even within secular bear markets, there are years that are “up” and there are opportunities to make money.  So, yeah, the markets might be up the next two years, but that doesn’t mean we’ve entered an official “secular bull market”—that is, an extended period of time in which the markets are up.  And we won’t know that until we’re officially into it, which takes 20/20 hindsight years from now.

What almost all bear markets have in common is volatility.  You have to manage volatility.  It’s a silent killer on portfolios.  Go back to your plan.  Make adjustments according to that plan.  Do your best not to lose money and don’t be greedy.  You don’t need to capture the top of the market to meet financial planning goals at risk of a significant drop.  Balance your allocations, reduce your volatility, and even out your returns so that you ultimately meet those financial goals over time.

You must make your own path

Start here:  It’s not your fault.  Your parents probably had their retirements built this way:

     • By the government (Social Security)
     • By their employer(s) (a pension)
     • By their savings (what they saved)

But your retirement probably looks more like this:

     • Your savings (maybe a 401k plan)
     • Your savings
     • Your savings

Not only is this a daunting proposition, but the people who probably help you with advice about many things (your parents) are often unable to help you at all in retirement planning because what they did won’t work for you.  As a result, this generation is a little lost.  Not your fault.  But it is your responsibility to recognize that you may need some assistance and help in learning what needs to be done, when and how.  Read.  Ask questions.  Do research.  This is your life and your money.  You can do this.

And, well, that’s what I’m here for.  I can help, too.  Let’s get started.

This decision – heck, any decision – has been much anticipated so that people could do their end-of-the-year planning.  The good news is that it also comes with some direction about the estate tax so we can all move forward with estate tax planning as well.

What should you do?

You have probably been talking to your accountant about this contingency, and now you need to act.  If this means shifting income from this year to next, taking more expenses this year, converting an IRA to a Roth, etc., you now need to make all that happen before the end of the year.   (As if you didn’t have enough to do already.)