Pick a date!

You can’t predict the future, but you need to start somewhere. Retiring at 65 is no longer the default. Your target age should stem from your values, so revisit or define them.

Ten years out

This is a time to get a reality check on your financial life and start to envision what retirement will be like.

• Time to take a basic retirement planning class. Look to your local community college, retirement system pension planners, or professional organizations. You’re not trying to become an expert or nail down your plan. But you are trying to figure out what you need to know and what you need to think about.
• How much money have you saved in a 401(k), 403(b) or other retirement account?  Do you need to save more?  Will you need to work longer?  Do you need to adjust your allocations to make them more aggressive or (more likely) conservative
• Will you get a pension? When will you reach the vesting requirements?  How much will you receive? How will it be paid out? In a lump sum, monthly, etc.?)
• Do you have a copy of your Social Security statement? How much can you expect to receive?
• What other assets and investments can contribute to your retirement? Are there any potential drains on your income?
• Start having conversations with your close friends and family members about your vision for your “retirement.”  How do you want to spend your time?  What skills might you want to keep using in part-time or volunteer work?

 Five years out

• Revisit the questions from 10 years out.
• This is a good time to start a journal. Take some of those daydreams you put away and make them more specific. For example, rather than “spend time with grandkids,” you might write “spend two dinners a week with grandchildren.”

 Two years out (or less)

Time to get serious.

1. Make sure your partner/spouse is involved, if you have one and they aren’t already. Communicate and negotiate with them about how you expect to spend your days and money.
2. Hire a financial planner if you haven’t already done so. You want a fiduciary. The Financial Planning Association is a great place to find one.
3. Create a realistic budget. Figure out if you’ll need to work for income or where you may need to cut back on expenses.
4. Figure out when you’ll take Social Security, whether and when you will sign up for Medicare, etc.
5. Turn that “stake in the ground” into a real retirement date. Put a date in the calendar to retire, whether you share this with your employer or not.
6. Get more specific about how you’ll spend your newly found time.

 I often say it’s not about the plan, it’s about planNING. Life happens. Mid-flight corrections are necessary, and you can’t schedule those.  But following this schedule will help minimize the changes and the surprises.

Take the pressure off!

You do not have to have all of the answers now, so start by separating the financial part from the how-to-pass-the-time part. I often tell clients who are “stuck” on how to begin planning for retirement to focus on the first three years and then on the last three years. This takes the stress out of a big question like, “What the heck am I going to do for 20-30 years?!”

For the first three years, write down the collection of projects you want to get done. This often leads to a very satisfying feeling of purpose and direction. It’s like you’re still working, but you’re working on the stuff you want to work on and have been putting off. I’ve had clients travel for a year, remodel homes and take care of grandchildren, to name a few.

Then write down your ideal last three years, which are also usually easy to envision. These are typically slower, easier, quieter. This part also comes with specifics, such as:

• where you’ll live,
• who you’ll rely on for companionship and support,
• how you’ll want to manage your physical slow-down,
• how you want to be cared for and who will take care of you, and
• how you’ll feel at the end of each day

This process helps you figure out how much money or assets you need to set aside to meet these criteria, which will help build the financial part of your retirement plan.

Now for the years in between. I recommend making a list of the skills you want to keep using. This will likely have far fewer specifics than the first or last three years. That’s fine. For instance,

• I’ve had teachers that want to continuing teaching, so they consider tutoring.
• Those leaving executive positions find there are all kinds of nonprofit boards looking for expertise in leadership, development and managing a budget without having to manage employees.
• Some people enjoy mentoring others and find places to create those relationships.
• Talk to others who have retired. Keep your networks going with people who are or are not in the workforce. You don’t need to know exactly what you want to do, but it’s helpful to identify those skills of which you are most proud, most willing to “give away,” and most likely to energize and satisfy you.

In my experience, most people take two to three years to settle into a “retirement groove.” They tackle all of their projects early on, then they hit the end of that list and it takes a while to figure out how to spend their days. Even those who have done a “whole lotta nothin’” in the first year of retirement realize they want to make a change in how they spend their time. This is typical and normal. I also find it takes two to three years for the budget to work itself out. Rest assured, both how to spend time and how to spend money do work out. And both begin with figuring out how to spend the first three years and how to spend the last three years.

Put your attention on your weekly money

What you want to do now is physically separate your money into different buckets.  Here’s what you do next:

1. Set up multiple accounts at your bank.  Most of the bigger institutions will let you set up multiple accounts for free if you automatically transfer money into them each month (which you will).  Nickname these accounts.
    
2. The first account is your “static account” (call it whatever you want).  All income is deposited here.  Leave money there to meet static expenses.  The rest gets transferred to your “discretionary” accounts and your “savings” accounts.
    
3. Only money for the week gets transferred from the static account into the discretionary account.  Make an agreement with your financial partners (if you have them) as to who is going to get how much.  Each person should get a debit card.  Each person spends that money through the debit card. No credit cards.  Pay your static expenses with a credit card if you want the miles. Use the static account to pay off the credit card, but ONLY for those expenses.
    
4. IMPORTANT POINT:  Get enough money only for the week.  Not the month.  If you spend all your money by day 5 of the week, you can limp along for two days without money.  But if you run out of money on day 15 of the month, two weeks is too long to go without money.  Putting your attention in weeks also helps you focus on what you’re doing.  You will be more present.
    
5. Transfer money automatically each month into your “vacation”, “kitchen remodel”, etc. accounts at a set amount (nickname the accounts as such).  For instance, $50 into the vacation, $200 into the kitchen remodel, etc.
    
6. Watch what happens.  

Here’s what I hear from people who have actually done this:  People start to turn it into a game.  They start to see where they could reduce their static expenses.  They start to contemplate whether they really want that new grill (or purse or pair of shoes) or if they’d rather add that money to their “kitchen remodel” account.  They watch their static expenses shrink, they get more present with their decision-making around the discretionary money, and they love to watch their “kitchen remodel” accounts grow.  It’s a game. It’s fun.  It requires little accounting, as most of it’s done automatically.  You don’t have to watch every penny.  You don’t have to know how to use Quickbooks.  Brilliant.  If you have success, I would love to hear your stories.

For many, this strategy isn’t working, either right now or ever.  Those folks need to watch where their money is going.  I’ve long believed the trick to getting started, leave alone getting it right, is to make it easy and fun.  I think I might have found it.  Now, I stick to my inclination not to work with folks on budgeting, bail-outs and bad attitudes, but I’m always willing to share strategies that work.

Think of your money in three buckets—static, discretionary, and future

I will start with an admission:  I don’t actually budget the way I’m about to describe.  I’m stealing this idea from a Financial Planning Association conference I just attended (my whole life is continuing education).  I’m one of those freaky people that keeps track of just about every expenditure, tracks it in Quickbooks with help of my assistant, and analyzes where money is being spent, where it can be saved, etc.  Most people won’t do this, so I rarely, if ever, recommend it. 

What I like about this idea is that it’s easy and fun.  This step should take no more than an hour.  Here’s what you do:

1. Get out the last six months’ worth of statements that contain your expenses (checking, credit cards, etc.).  Six months is required for homeowners, in particular, so it catches semi-annual expenses.  You might want to add other annual expenses.
    
2. Add up all the expenditures and withdraws (ATM withdraws included). Divide by 6.  This is what you’re spending per month.
    
3. Now, go through those statements and identify all your “static” expenses – that is, those that happen every month as a result of passed decisions you have made.  Those expenses include the mortgage(s), property taxes, insurances, car payments, utilities, other loan payments (including credit card interest), childcare expenses (not random babysitting), etc.  Add them up.
    
4. Everything else is discretionary.  Subtract “static” from total expenses.  Remember to keep your timeframe to monthly numbers.  That’s your discretionary budget.  Divide by 4.5 (or so).  That’s your weekly discretionary budget.
    
5. Now sit down and decide what you want or need to save for.  These things could be a kitchen remodel or new clothes or a vacation.  Some folks will add to this quarterly tax payments or annual payments like life insurance premiums.

Here’s what you’ve done.  You’ve gotten a clear picture of how much money you are spending as a result of passed decisions.  That’s your static bucket.  You’ve gotten a clearer picture of what you’re spending week-to-week on food, clothes, household goods, extra babysitting, pet expenses, etc.  You’ve gotten clear about what you want to do with your money. This may take some tweaking along the way, but you’re on your way.  See next week’s post on what to do next.

I had to laugh the other day, though, when a post requested a referral to a financial planner who “could explain all the options for paying for college that people use.”  This person wanted unbiased advice and essentially the a la carte menu of possibilities. That would be a little like me walking into the paint store and saying, “I just want to see all the colors people use to paint their walls.”  Have you ever seen how many colors there are, how many different shades of the same color, and how many brands of paints?  That’s before you get to oil or acrylic.  Don’t get me started on brushes. And have you ever taken a sample of favorite paint home from the store, put it on the wall and hated it?  This original poster would have been better off with a survey.

Your advisor should advise YOU.

Here are the many ways I’ve seen college get funded:

• Kid decides not to go to college or not to go right away.
• Kid decides to live at home and attend two-year college.
• 529 plans.
• Paying out of income as the child goes to college.  In other words, not using savings at all.  (Heck, in one instance, the family’s annual tuition expense went down when the kid left a private high school and went to a state university and the family bought a new car.)
• Brokerage and investment accounts.
• Grandparents or other family members paid for it.
• Scholarships.
• Work-study programs.
• Loans.  (Remember, you can borrow for education but not retirement)
• Life insurance cash values.
• Investment properties (either selling them or using rental income).
• Inheritances and inheritance advances.

I could go on.  My point is that there is no right way to do this, you need someone who can listen to you, understand your values and know who you are, and help you navigate among the many options with a presentation of the beauties and pitfalls of each. That’s what good advisors do:  they listen well, they have opinions, they articulate them, and help their clients come to their own decisions about their financial lives.  This is why good advice is worth it.  It saves you time, money, anguish and agony.  A strategy for college funding is not always easy to just paint over.  Make sure you get as good of a look as you can at the start.

Plan first, tools second, revisit often.

This adage applies to life insurance probably more than any other tool in your financial planning toolbox.  In most cases, you bought it with the intention of keeping it for 20 years or more.  A lot of life happens in five to 10 years, let alone 20.  One of the biggest changes during that time is your own maturity – your thoughts and values change, your needs change, and your desire for security changes.  What made perfect sense and what got your attention 5, 10, or 20 years ago is probably quite different than what you would notice and pay attention to today.  And while you’re going about your life, the insurance industry has probably introduced new products and stopped selling others.

Remember to go back to your plan and then look at the tools (products) you’re using to make those plans happen.  Evaluate whether a particular financial tool is still a viable part of that plan or no longer serving you.  A life insurance review would be valuable.  Most life insurance agents will do these for “free” as a way to sell you something else.  Find an ethical one who will give you an honest answer, even if it means losing a commission.  For life insurance, consider these questions:

• What might I need life insurance for?
• Do I have people who are financial dependent on me?  For how much longer?
• Does the policy I have any cash value?
• How is my health?
• How much do I need?
• How might I use life insurance to meet multiple financial planning needs?  (long-term care, cash reserves, retirement income supplementation, college education funding, etc.)
• How might I use pre-tax dollars to meet those premiums?
• What is the value of my estate and how much might my heirs have to pay in estate taxes?

Once you’ve explored some of these questions in present time, your answers from years ago may have changed.  If so, time to choose a new tool.

Remember that taxes do good things and you do have choices

First, breathe.  Lighten up.  We’ve all been there in one year or another.  Find gratitude.  The taxes you pay do good things – libraries, schools, roads, people to fix the roads, street lights, police, courts, and the list goes on.  These things may not be perfect, but for the most part, they’re functional.

Second, remember that you have choices.  Here’s something else a bunch of you did this tax season:  You funded your qualified retirement plans.  When you looked at the difference in your tax bill based on whether you funded that plan or not, it felt like a no-brainer to fund it.  You thought, “Look at all the money I saved in taxes!”  You probably thought with pride, “I put money away for retirement just like I’m supposed to and look at how much I put away!”

If you had these thoughts, I want you to contemplate these thoughts:  (1) If you believe taxes are going to remain the same or go down for you in retirement, it makes sense to fund qualified plans.  But if you believe taxes are going up, you’ve just “kicked the can down the road,” when taxes in retirement will likely be much higher.  Did you really save money?  Frankly, taxes are on sale right now.  (2) You may have been better off funding a tax-free retirement with after-tax dollars, rather than a qualified plan, so that when you go to retire, you’ll have fewer taxes to pay, less fear about tax deadlines, and a simplified tax return.  Starts to make retirement look even better, doesn’t it?  Remember that you have choices about how you earn, invest, and spend your money.

The decisions are emotional and financial…and not easy

The purpose of long-term care insurance (LTCI) is to provide insurance to pay for your care when you are unable to take care of your basic needs – like eating, toileting, transferring from a bed to chair, etc. – which generally accompanies a debilitating illness that is not life-threatening or at least takes a long time to kill you.  With your basic LTC policy, you pay premiums for life or for 10 years and then receive payments for claims you make to the policy when you need it. If you die without using it, you lose all your premiums. In this way, LTCI is more like your homeowner’s or auto policy.

The first conundrum is that you don’t know whether you’ll ever make a claim on the policy, and these things are getting expensive.  First of all, most people want to believe they’ll be healthy until one night they die in their sleep. No one wants to use the policy benefits.  Once they concede that they might need care, some people believe that this is what their spouse or children are for – to take care of them in old age. Others don’t want to be a burden to their kids, so they want a policy to cover these expenses, which are predicted to be astronomical in the coming decades.  Others want to self-insure, but their kids are worried about losing the family vacation home and want Mom and Dad to have the coverage to the point that the kids will pay for it.  Once you’ve gotten past this decision – to get it or not – now you have to decide what and how much.

The number of insurers remaining in the LTC market continues to decline, so your options are limited. LTCI came on the market and was heralded as this terrific, must-have product, but it has had little history.  There are not many insureds and they’re only starting now to make claims, so there’s little claims history.  What that means is that there is not a lot of statistical data available to create and price the product accurately so that there is enough money available to pay claims. Life insurance is over 200 years old and auto insurance and disability insurance are over 100 years old. Companies selling those products have lots of history and statistics upon which to create and price products. LTCI is about 35 years old at the most – not a lot of history.  As a result, big-name players are getting out (MetLife, John Hancock, Berkshire, etc.).  The questions become: Which company do I use and will it be around?  And if so, is it going to hike the premium on my policy such that I can’t afford it or have to cut back on coverage in the years to come?  As a consumer, it’s hard to tell if what you’re paying for you’re actually going to get. That’s a hard sell.

Then, to make it even more complicated, there are “hybrid” products that are actually life insurance products that provide a LTC benefit rider. If you need to access the death benefit to provide long-term care, you can.  If you don’t use that rider and die, the death benefit pays out to your beneficiary.  This all sounds great until you look at the premiums. Because the over premiums you’ll pay will be bigger, ideally you want the premiums and corresponding death benefit to serve multiple purposes if you can (like estate tax planning or funding a trust). That has its own complications because if you do use the LTC rider and leave little death benefit, that secondary purpose may be thwarted.

The good news, I guess, if there is any is that business owners can get LTCI and get the premiums as a deductible expense. Be sure to ask your accountant about this. It’ll be the easiest question of the bunch.

Diversify strategies and build in flexibility

Evening out the swings in income and work-flow in business takes practice, patience, strategy, and intentionality.  Business owners should always be marketing, even when they’re busy.  They should either do it themselves or delegate it to an employee. Business owners should always be “working” on the business they brought in (again, either themselves or by employees). This evens out income and it evens out work-flow.  It takes time to make this the culture of one’s work day and one’s business. Then, on top of that, there’s the hard decisions of how much to set aside in boom times for leaner years.  Is the money best saved or reinvested in the business? All these challenges are on-going in business. Been there, done that, still doing it. The balance and the planning have to be intentional.

The same is true for your portfolio.  We use a platform that allows our clients to take advantage of the brain trust of those with PhDs and master’s degrees to determine how their money should be invested based on their philosophy(ies) and willingness to take risk.  Notice I used “philosophy(ies).”  This platform allows my clients to employ different money managers with different philosophies all at the same time. Because, let’s face it, the market is going to do what the market is going to do, and every money manager has an opinion about what you should do as a result, from “buy and hold” to “stay in cash and actively manage investments for positive returns.”  Just as in business, as in portfolios – sometimes there are tough decisions to make along the way, but if one builds in different strategies and provides flexibility for money to grow, chances increase that one will reach investment goals that serve their lives. When the time comes to make changes, changes can be made easily and with unbiased advice.

While I can’t help you directly with the business decisions, I can refer you to people who can.  And if you want to talk portfolios, please give me a call.

Choose a planner that put his/her attention on tax planning

Remember my beliefs.  The first one is that retirement savings and planning depends on you, you, and you (as opposed to the government, your employer, and you).  The second one is that you’ve got to keep your eye on market volatility, inflation/deflation (even if only medical expenses inflation), and TAXES.  Taxes could potentially be your biggest expense in retirement.  If you’re not diversifying your investments to provide tax-free income in retirement, you’re missing out on an opportunity to save on that expense and therefore have more money to spend in retirement.

Here are the Cliff Notes (remember Cliff Notes?):

1. As investors accumulate retirement assets, they should put money in three buckets: one that’s tax-deferred, one that is tax-free, and one that is taxable for savings and investments outside tax-advantaged accounts.
    
2. Investors often can stretch their retirement dollars further if they have the flexibility to manage distributions in a tax-efficient way.  This is a process that must begin in the accumulation phase.
    
3. Directing money to tax-free accounts can be the most challenging and needs to start early.
    
4. In the example given, because the couple was able to draw money from a variety of sources, the couple had $120K in retirement income and was able to keep an effective 7.7% tax rate and also realized these potential benefits: they will qualify for lower Medicare Part B premiums, potentially qualify for the lower capital gains tax, and improve their ability to deduct health insurance and/or long-term care premiums.
    
5. If cash is king, flexibility is queen:  A tax-diversified retirement portfolio gives investors more flexibility to deal with unknowns like changing tax rates and the potential means testing for Social Security and Medicare benefits. 

See, I’m not the only one who says these things.