Pick a date!

You can’t predict the future, but you need to start somewhere. Retiring at 65 is no longer the default. Your target age should stem from your values, so revisit or define them.

Ten years out

This is a time to get a reality check on your financial life and start to envision what retirement will be like.

• Time to take a basic retirement planning class. Look to your local community college, retirement system pension planners, or professional organizations. You’re not trying to become an expert or nail down your plan. But you are trying to figure out what you need to know and what you need to think about.
• How much money have you saved in a 401(k), 403(b) or other retirement account?  Do you need to save more?  Will you need to work longer?  Do you need to adjust your allocations to make them more aggressive or (more likely) conservative
• Will you get a pension? When will you reach the vesting requirements?  How much will you receive? How will it be paid out? In a lump sum, monthly, etc.?)
• Do you have a copy of your Social Security statement? How much can you expect to receive?
• What other assets and investments can contribute to your retirement? Are there any potential drains on your income?
• Start having conversations with your close friends and family members about your vision for your “retirement.”  How do you want to spend your time?  What skills might you want to keep using in part-time or volunteer work?

 Five years out

• Revisit the questions from 10 years out.
• This is a good time to start a journal. Take some of those daydreams you put away and make them more specific. For example, rather than “spend time with grandkids,” you might write “spend two dinners a week with grandchildren.”

 Two years out (or less)

Time to get serious.

1. Make sure your partner/spouse is involved, if you have one and they aren’t already. Communicate and negotiate with them about how you expect to spend your days and money.
2. Hire a financial planner if you haven’t already done so. You want a fiduciary. The Financial Planning Association is a great place to find one.
3. Create a realistic budget. Figure out if you’ll need to work for income or where you may need to cut back on expenses.
4. Figure out when you’ll take Social Security, whether and when you will sign up for Medicare, etc.
5. Turn that “stake in the ground” into a real retirement date. Put a date in the calendar to retire, whether you share this with your employer or not.
6. Get more specific about how you’ll spend your newly found time.

 I often say it’s not about the plan, it’s about planNING. Life happens. Mid-flight corrections are necessary, and you can’t schedule those.  But following this schedule will help minimize the changes and the surprises.

Take the pressure off!

You do not have to have all of the answers now, so start by separating the financial part from the how-to-pass-the-time part. I often tell clients who are “stuck” on how to begin planning for retirement to focus on the first three years and then on the last three years. This takes the stress out of a big question like, “What the heck am I going to do for 20-30 years?!”

For the first three years, write down the collection of projects you want to get done. This often leads to a very satisfying feeling of purpose and direction. It’s like you’re still working, but you’re working on the stuff you want to work on and have been putting off. I’ve had clients travel for a year, remodel homes and take care of grandchildren, to name a few.

Then write down your ideal last three years, which are also usually easy to envision. These are typically slower, easier, quieter. This part also comes with specifics, such as:

• where you’ll live,
• who you’ll rely on for companionship and support,
• how you’ll want to manage your physical slow-down,
• how you want to be cared for and who will take care of you, and
• how you’ll feel at the end of each day

This process helps you figure out how much money or assets you need to set aside to meet these criteria, which will help build the financial part of your retirement plan.

Now for the years in between. I recommend making a list of the skills you want to keep using. This will likely have far fewer specifics than the first or last three years. That’s fine. For instance,

• I’ve had teachers that want to continuing teaching, so they consider tutoring.
• Those leaving executive positions find there are all kinds of nonprofit boards looking for expertise in leadership, development and managing a budget without having to manage employees.
• Some people enjoy mentoring others and find places to create those relationships.
• Talk to others who have retired. Keep your networks going with people who are or are not in the workforce. You don’t need to know exactly what you want to do, but it’s helpful to identify those skills of which you are most proud, most willing to “give away,” and most likely to energize and satisfy you.

In my experience, most people take two to three years to settle into a “retirement groove.” They tackle all of their projects early on, then they hit the end of that list and it takes a while to figure out how to spend their days. Even those who have done a “whole lotta nothin’” in the first year of retirement realize they want to make a change in how they spend their time. This is typical and normal. I also find it takes two to three years for the budget to work itself out. Rest assured, both how to spend time and how to spend money do work out. And both begin with figuring out how to spend the first three years and how to spend the last three years.

You can buy a house and you can get a mortgage

Here is what we have been able to do in the mortgage world lately:

• More and more lenders are making appraisals easier.  We are able to use AXIS appraisals, which are based in the Bay Area (fewer Fresno- and Martinez-based appraisers doing appraisals in San Francisco).
 
• We have a lender that will do 90% loans to $979,750!!  That means we can do a purchase of a $1,088,000 home with 10% down.
 
• Rates are still low.
 
• Lenders are still lending on live-work lofts.
 
• Lenders are still doing recent condo-conversions (TICs to condo).
 
• We have lenders that will still fund in the name of an LLC or corporation.
 
• We have two banks that will underwrite and approve a borrower based upon his/her assets and derive an analytical income for qualifying for the loan versus using income derived from tax returns.  This is like a stated-income loan for those with lots of liquid assets.
 
• We have banks that will allow for a community second mortgage or an employer second mortgage, such as the SF Mayor’s Office of Housing program or Kaiser employee loans.
 
• Most condos can be FHA approved by sending in FHA approval packages to the California office or HUD.  Turn-around time is 2-4 weeks.

The rest of the market?  Just as tedious as it’s ever been.  If you have to get a mortgage, hang in there.  The paperwork is oppressive and the conditions are often silly, but it will happen. Call us if you need some help.

A little education can go a long way

It should be no surprise to you if you’re following this blog that I’m not a fan of 401(k) plans.  Most of my clients have them, though.  They need help identifying the best funds, and they need a way to manage those funds.  As you also have probably gathered, I’m a big fan of not losing money and taking advantage of opportunities to make money. 

Time for shameless self-promotion.  If you want to know if you’re in the best performing funds in your 401(k), and if you want to have some guidance as to when you should be taking advantage of the best times to make money in the markets, you ought to check out this tool:  http://lanning.mutualfundmarketalert.com/. Please fill out the sign-in form and watch the video.  I don’t spam.  I don’t sell my database to anyone at any time for any price for any reason.  You may have limited options with your 401(k).  The least you can do is make the most of them.

Put your attention on your weekly money

What you want to do now is physically separate your money into different buckets.  Here’s what you do next:

1. Set up multiple accounts at your bank.  Most of the bigger institutions will let you set up multiple accounts for free if you automatically transfer money into them each month (which you will).  Nickname these accounts.
    
2. The first account is your “static account” (call it whatever you want).  All income is deposited here.  Leave money there to meet static expenses.  The rest gets transferred to your “discretionary” accounts and your “savings” accounts.
    
3. Only money for the week gets transferred from the static account into the discretionary account.  Make an agreement with your financial partners (if you have them) as to who is going to get how much.  Each person should get a debit card.  Each person spends that money through the debit card. No credit cards.  Pay your static expenses with a credit card if you want the miles. Use the static account to pay off the credit card, but ONLY for those expenses.
    
4. IMPORTANT POINT:  Get enough money only for the week.  Not the month.  If you spend all your money by day 5 of the week, you can limp along for two days without money.  But if you run out of money on day 15 of the month, two weeks is too long to go without money.  Putting your attention in weeks also helps you focus on what you’re doing.  You will be more present.
    
5. Transfer money automatically each month into your “vacation”, “kitchen remodel”, etc. accounts at a set amount (nickname the accounts as such).  For instance, $50 into the vacation, $200 into the kitchen remodel, etc.
    
6. Watch what happens.  

Here’s what I hear from people who have actually done this:  People start to turn it into a game.  They start to see where they could reduce their static expenses.  They start to contemplate whether they really want that new grill (or purse or pair of shoes) or if they’d rather add that money to their “kitchen remodel” account.  They watch their static expenses shrink, they get more present with their decision-making around the discretionary money, and they love to watch their “kitchen remodel” accounts grow.  It’s a game. It’s fun.  It requires little accounting, as most of it’s done automatically.  You don’t have to watch every penny.  You don’t have to know how to use Quickbooks.  Brilliant.  If you have success, I would love to hear your stories.

For many, this strategy isn’t working, either right now or ever.  Those folks need to watch where their money is going.  I’ve long believed the trick to getting started, leave alone getting it right, is to make it easy and fun.  I think I might have found it.  Now, I stick to my inclination not to work with folks on budgeting, bail-outs and bad attitudes, but I’m always willing to share strategies that work.

Think of your money in three buckets—static, discretionary, and future

I will start with an admission:  I don’t actually budget the way I’m about to describe.  I’m stealing this idea from a Financial Planning Association conference I just attended (my whole life is continuing education).  I’m one of those freaky people that keeps track of just about every expenditure, tracks it in Quickbooks with help of my assistant, and analyzes where money is being spent, where it can be saved, etc.  Most people won’t do this, so I rarely, if ever, recommend it. 

What I like about this idea is that it’s easy and fun.  This step should take no more than an hour.  Here’s what you do:

1. Get out the last six months’ worth of statements that contain your expenses (checking, credit cards, etc.).  Six months is required for homeowners, in particular, so it catches semi-annual expenses.  You might want to add other annual expenses.
    
2. Add up all the expenditures and withdraws (ATM withdraws included). Divide by 6.  This is what you’re spending per month.
    
3. Now, go through those statements and identify all your “static” expenses – that is, those that happen every month as a result of passed decisions you have made.  Those expenses include the mortgage(s), property taxes, insurances, car payments, utilities, other loan payments (including credit card interest), childcare expenses (not random babysitting), etc.  Add them up.
    
4. Everything else is discretionary.  Subtract “static” from total expenses.  Remember to keep your timeframe to monthly numbers.  That’s your discretionary budget.  Divide by 4.5 (or so).  That’s your weekly discretionary budget.
    
5. Now sit down and decide what you want or need to save for.  These things could be a kitchen remodel or new clothes or a vacation.  Some folks will add to this quarterly tax payments or annual payments like life insurance premiums.

Here’s what you’ve done.  You’ve gotten a clear picture of how much money you are spending as a result of passed decisions.  That’s your static bucket.  You’ve gotten a clearer picture of what you’re spending week-to-week on food, clothes, household goods, extra babysitting, pet expenses, etc.  You’ve gotten clear about what you want to do with your money. This may take some tweaking along the way, but you’re on your way.  See next week’s post on what to do next.

You can have confidence managing your 401(k)

When I meet my clients with 401(k)s for the first time, most of them have no idea why they chose the funds they did, have no idea whether they’re in the right funds, and have no idea what to do next. So they have done nothing for years and are continuing to do nothing. This does not have to be you. Here’s a game plan for you:

•   Get out your last statement.  Since it’s not been so scary to open it lately, you might actually know where it is.  

•   Check out:  http://lanning.mutualfundmarketalert.com/. It’s the best tool I’ve seen so far to make managing a 401(k) easy.  It’s an educational tool. That’s all. But it might help.  

•   When I tell clients to talk to their 401(k) administrator about their plan, I get either a blank stare or the somewhat rhetorical questions, “yeah, who is that?”  Your company does have a 401(k) administrator somewhere.  Find that person.  

•   Ask the administrator these questions: 
     o   May I please have the list of funds in which I can invest?
     o   How often can I change my allocation?
     o   How do I change my allocation?
     o   Are there any penalties for changing allocations?  

•   Implement the Mutual Fund Analyzer tool. Follow the signal. Make your adjustments. 
 

This is simply an educational tool that might allow you to catch the upsides of more of the markets. You won’t catch the highs and you won’t necessarily miss the lows.  But that’s better than blowing with the volatile wind of this bear market.  And, if you can make some money in the meantime, all the better.

Plan first, tools second, revisit often.

This adage applies to life insurance probably more than any other tool in your financial planning toolbox.  In most cases, you bought it with the intention of keeping it for 20 years or more.  A lot of life happens in five to 10 years, let alone 20.  One of the biggest changes during that time is your own maturity – your thoughts and values change, your needs change, and your desire for security changes.  What made perfect sense and what got your attention 5, 10, or 20 years ago is probably quite different than what you would notice and pay attention to today.  And while you’re going about your life, the insurance industry has probably introduced new products and stopped selling others.

Remember to go back to your plan and then look at the tools (products) you’re using to make those plans happen.  Evaluate whether a particular financial tool is still a viable part of that plan or no longer serving you.  A life insurance review would be valuable.  Most life insurance agents will do these for “free” as a way to sell you something else.  Find an ethical one who will give you an honest answer, even if it means losing a commission.  For life insurance, consider these questions:

• What might I need life insurance for?
• Do I have people who are financial dependent on me?  For how much longer?
• Does the policy I have any cash value?
• How is my health?
• How much do I need?
• How might I use life insurance to meet multiple financial planning needs?  (long-term care, cash reserves, retirement income supplementation, college education funding, etc.)
• How might I use pre-tax dollars to meet those premiums?
• What is the value of my estate and how much might my heirs have to pay in estate taxes?

Once you’ve explored some of these questions in present time, your answers from years ago may have changed.  If so, time to choose a new tool.

Remember that taxes do good things and you do have choices

First, breathe.  Lighten up.  We’ve all been there in one year or another.  Find gratitude.  The taxes you pay do good things – libraries, schools, roads, people to fix the roads, street lights, police, courts, and the list goes on.  These things may not be perfect, but for the most part, they’re functional.

Second, remember that you have choices.  Here’s something else a bunch of you did this tax season:  You funded your qualified retirement plans.  When you looked at the difference in your tax bill based on whether you funded that plan or not, it felt like a no-brainer to fund it.  You thought, “Look at all the money I saved in taxes!”  You probably thought with pride, “I put money away for retirement just like I’m supposed to and look at how much I put away!”

If you had these thoughts, I want you to contemplate these thoughts:  (1) If you believe taxes are going to remain the same or go down for you in retirement, it makes sense to fund qualified plans.  But if you believe taxes are going up, you’ve just “kicked the can down the road,” when taxes in retirement will likely be much higher.  Did you really save money?  Frankly, taxes are on sale right now.  (2) You may have been better off funding a tax-free retirement with after-tax dollars, rather than a qualified plan, so that when you go to retire, you’ll have fewer taxes to pay, less fear about tax deadlines, and a simplified tax return.  Starts to make retirement look even better, doesn’t it?  Remember that you have choices about how you earn, invest, and spend your money.

What to eliminate from 31 ideas and what to add

There’s an older article that refers to 31 ideas. I see no reason to replicate it.  Check it out.  There are some great suggestions.

 
Here’s what I would not do (or at least be wary of):

• Make an extra mortgage payment.  This is only worthwhile if you’ve sat down with your financial planner and decided this is actually in your best interests.  It likely isn’t.

• Increase your student loan payment.  Again, only worthwhile if you’ve considered the interest rate, whether you can deduct the interest, and whether it makes sense in your overall financial plan.  Remember, paying off debts is not the same as accumulating assets.

• Seeking a lower interest credit card.  Initiating new credit can bring down your credit score, so if you’re planning to buy a house, this could be a bad idea.  Otherwise, it’s a great idea.

• Be careful about shopping for new home and auto policies.  Make sure that you’re not losing “seniority” at your insurer that you would be giving up should you change companies.

 
Here’s what I applaud and highly recommend:

• Set an automated payment toward your debt.  In this, I’m thinking about the minimum monthly payments.  Make sure those are paid automatically.  Now, you might always pay more or pay them off, but I can’t tell you how many clients thought they were paying ABC Bank for their mortgage but sent the payment to the credit card division and didn’t catch the mistake until they were 30 days late.  Yikes.

• Check your credit report.

• Reread your estate planning documents. Make sure you still agree with them.

• Walk a loved one through your affairs. 

 
Here’s what I would add:

• Call your mortgage broker and see if you can do better on your residential loans.

• See the comment near “Investments and Retirement” about checking out your medical report file from the nationwide consumer reporting agencies.  Like checking your credit report, you may discover mistakes that are causing you money.

• Consider buying long-term care insurance.

 
If we can help you with any of these items or with a referral, please call.