To review, you should start giving your children an allowance as soon as they can count money, usually at four or five years old. Your sole purpose in providing an allowance is to give your children an opportunity to build money skills. Allowance should not be tied to chores. They get an allowance because they’re part of the household; they do chores because they’re part of the household. When it comes to allowance, you get to make the rules and enforce them. You may have values about money that you want your kids to learn. I’ll share what has worked in my house for years.

My son and daughter get an allowance every week, like a paycheck. They receive a dollar for every year of their age — at age 7 they get $7, at age 9 they get $9, and so on. This may seem like a lot of money. Keep reading.

From that amount, my kids are required to give 10%  to charity and put 20% in long-term savings. They get to spend the remaining 70% pretty much as they wish. They have individual places to put this money. For years, we used a divided piggy bank. Coffee cans work just as well. Now we use storage containers. Every week they get an envelope with all their money with the denominations available to make the allocations. You’ll need to help them when they’re young to count and sort the money — it’s a great coin identification and math exercise.

An important note: Make sure they physically handle the money, especially when they’re young, and make them count money when they pay you back for something you bought for them at the store. You want them to have a real life experience of receiving money and watching it leave their hands. We handle actual money so rarely in our society these days. For the longest time, my kids thought that if you needed cash you just went to the ATM and got some. They had no idea that you had to put money in to get money out. So make this reality of having money come into their possession and leave it a part or your kids’ early lives, so they can transfer that experience to the non-cash-oriented world when they’re older.

With all that cash burning a hole in their pockets, sooner or later your children will want to go shopping. Take them, allowing for a significant amount of time to shop, especially early on. You want to make sure they have time to walk all the aisles, pick a variety of things, put them back, choose something else, etc. But leave their money at home. Pay for their purchase yourself, then have them pay you back when you get home. This avoids a lost money crisis and allows for experiences with sales tax, how credit cards work, paying someone back, making change, etc.

Here’s the real trick:  Do NOT judge what they buy. You can set rules and constraints, but after that, hands off. For instance, I didn’t allow my kids to buy toy guns or candy. Sometimes I will put the kibosh on yet another oversized stuffed animal. After that, they can pretty much get whatever they want. This will take much discipline on your part, but I promise it will be worth it.

This plan has incredible beauty that I never saw coming. More on that next time. In the meantime, get your envelopes ready!

The financial planner in this story goes on to explain to his fellow passenger that it’s not the money you need to pass down, but the skills and values that have helped you build wealth. Money can disappear overnight, especially in the hands of those who have no skills to manage it. The old adage applies: Give people a fish and they will eat for a day. Teach them to fish, and they’re fed for life.

I’m a huge advocate of giving children an allowance for this very reason. As a general parenting philosophy, I believe it’s important to let kids have age-appropriate opportunities to screw up when the stakes are low. Direct experience and its consequences are the best teachers. I’d rather my daughter learn that it’s not such a great idea to put the heaviest block on the top of the tower when she’s three years old than wait until she’s 15, when I need her to stack the dishes in the cupboard. It’s the same with money: You want your kids to learn early.

Here’s another belief of mine: We don’t know what’s “sticking” in our children’s brains. Think about it. Memory is such a subjective and selective thing. Almost everyone has a lesson they learned about money that stuck with them. Most of us heard a parent or influential adult say something about money that influenced our beliefs about it, like “money doesn’t grow on trees.” The best thing you can do for your kid(s) is to let them have lots of opportunities to form their own beliefs about money — for example, not spending more than you have, avoiding deficit spending, delaying gratification — so they can form good money habits early. These are crucial life skills, and they don’t get built through our lectures.

I don’t claim to be an expert in this area. Most of my training has come from financial counselor Kathryn Amenta and from my son and daughter, who have been receiving an allowance since the oldest turned five. I encourage all my clients to give their kids an allowance, even if they are much older than that. Better to learn hard money lessons as late as college than when they get their first real paycheck.

How to make it work? Stay tuned.

Pick a date!

You can’t predict the future, but you need to start somewhere. Retiring at 65 is no longer the default. Your target age should stem from your values, so revisit or define them.

Ten years out

This is a time to get a reality check on your financial life and start to envision what retirement will be like.

• Time to take a basic retirement planning class. Look to your local community college, retirement system pension planners, or professional organizations. You’re not trying to become an expert or nail down your plan. But you are trying to figure out what you need to know and what you need to think about.
• How much money have you saved in a 401(k), 403(b) or other retirement account?  Do you need to save more?  Will you need to work longer?  Do you need to adjust your allocations to make them more aggressive or (more likely) conservative
• Will you get a pension? When will you reach the vesting requirements?  How much will you receive? How will it be paid out? In a lump sum, monthly, etc.?)
• Do you have a copy of your Social Security statement? How much can you expect to receive?
• What other assets and investments can contribute to your retirement? Are there any potential drains on your income?
• Start having conversations with your close friends and family members about your vision for your “retirement.”  How do you want to spend your time?  What skills might you want to keep using in part-time or volunteer work?

 Five years out

• Revisit the questions from 10 years out.
• This is a good time to start a journal. Take some of those daydreams you put away and make them more specific. For example, rather than “spend time with grandkids,” you might write “spend two dinners a week with grandchildren.”

 Two years out (or less)

Time to get serious.

1. Make sure your partner/spouse is involved, if you have one and they aren’t already. Communicate and negotiate with them about how you expect to spend your days and money.
2. Hire a financial planner if you haven’t already done so. You want a fiduciary. The Financial Planning Association is a great place to find one.
3. Create a realistic budget. Figure out if you’ll need to work for income or where you may need to cut back on expenses.
4. Figure out when you’ll take Social Security, whether and when you will sign up for Medicare, etc.
5. Turn that “stake in the ground” into a real retirement date. Put a date in the calendar to retire, whether you share this with your employer or not.
6. Get more specific about how you’ll spend your newly found time.

 I often say it’s not about the plan, it’s about planNING. Life happens. Mid-flight corrections are necessary, and you can’t schedule those.  But following this schedule will help minimize the changes and the surprises.

Take the pressure off!

You do not have to have all of the answers now, so start by separating the financial part from the how-to-pass-the-time part. I often tell clients who are “stuck” on how to begin planning for retirement to focus on the first three years and then on the last three years. This takes the stress out of a big question like, “What the heck am I going to do for 20-30 years?!”

For the first three years, write down the collection of projects you want to get done. This often leads to a very satisfying feeling of purpose and direction. It’s like you’re still working, but you’re working on the stuff you want to work on and have been putting off. I’ve had clients travel for a year, remodel homes and take care of grandchildren, to name a few.

Then write down your ideal last three years, which are also usually easy to envision. These are typically slower, easier, quieter. This part also comes with specifics, such as:

• where you’ll live,
• who you’ll rely on for companionship and support,
• how you’ll want to manage your physical slow-down,
• how you want to be cared for and who will take care of you, and
• how you’ll feel at the end of each day

This process helps you figure out how much money or assets you need to set aside to meet these criteria, which will help build the financial part of your retirement plan.

Now for the years in between. I recommend making a list of the skills you want to keep using. This will likely have far fewer specifics than the first or last three years. That’s fine. For instance,

• I’ve had teachers that want to continuing teaching, so they consider tutoring.
• Those leaving executive positions find there are all kinds of nonprofit boards looking for expertise in leadership, development and managing a budget without having to manage employees.
• Some people enjoy mentoring others and find places to create those relationships.
• Talk to others who have retired. Keep your networks going with people who are or are not in the workforce. You don’t need to know exactly what you want to do, but it’s helpful to identify those skills of which you are most proud, most willing to “give away,” and most likely to energize and satisfy you.

In my experience, most people take two to three years to settle into a “retirement groove.” They tackle all of their projects early on, then they hit the end of that list and it takes a while to figure out how to spend their days. Even those who have done a “whole lotta nothin’” in the first year of retirement realize they want to make a change in how they spend their time. This is typical and normal. I also find it takes two to three years for the budget to work itself out. Rest assured, both how to spend time and how to spend money do work out. And both begin with figuring out how to spend the first three years and how to spend the last three years.

A little education can go a long way

It should be no surprise to you if you’re following this blog that I’m not a fan of 401(k) plans.  Most of my clients have them, though.  They need help identifying the best funds, and they need a way to manage those funds.  As you also have probably gathered, I’m a big fan of not losing money and taking advantage of opportunities to make money. 

Time for shameless self-promotion.  If you want to know if you’re in the best performing funds in your 401(k), and if you want to have some guidance as to when you should be taking advantage of the best times to make money in the markets, you ought to check out this tool:  http://lanning.mutualfundmarketalert.com/. Please fill out the sign-in form and watch the video.  I don’t spam.  I don’t sell my database to anyone at any time for any price for any reason.  You may have limited options with your 401(k).  The least you can do is make the most of them.

You can have confidence managing your 401(k)

When I meet my clients with 401(k)s for the first time, most of them have no idea why they chose the funds they did, have no idea whether they’re in the right funds, and have no idea what to do next. So they have done nothing for years and are continuing to do nothing. This does not have to be you. Here’s a game plan for you:

•   Get out your last statement.  Since it’s not been so scary to open it lately, you might actually know where it is.  

•   Check out:  http://lanning.mutualfundmarketalert.com/. It’s the best tool I’ve seen so far to make managing a 401(k) easy.  It’s an educational tool. That’s all. But it might help.  

•   When I tell clients to talk to their 401(k) administrator about their plan, I get either a blank stare or the somewhat rhetorical questions, “yeah, who is that?”  Your company does have a 401(k) administrator somewhere.  Find that person.  

•   Ask the administrator these questions: 
     o   May I please have the list of funds in which I can invest?
     o   How often can I change my allocation?
     o   How do I change my allocation?
     o   Are there any penalties for changing allocations?  

•   Implement the Mutual Fund Analyzer tool. Follow the signal. Make your adjustments. 
 

This is simply an educational tool that might allow you to catch the upsides of more of the markets. You won’t catch the highs and you won’t necessarily miss the lows.  But that’s better than blowing with the volatile wind of this bear market.  And, if you can make some money in the meantime, all the better.

Remember that taxes do good things and you do have choices

First, breathe.  Lighten up.  We’ve all been there in one year or another.  Find gratitude.  The taxes you pay do good things – libraries, schools, roads, people to fix the roads, street lights, police, courts, and the list goes on.  These things may not be perfect, but for the most part, they’re functional.

Second, remember that you have choices.  Here’s something else a bunch of you did this tax season:  You funded your qualified retirement plans.  When you looked at the difference in your tax bill based on whether you funded that plan or not, it felt like a no-brainer to fund it.  You thought, “Look at all the money I saved in taxes!”  You probably thought with pride, “I put money away for retirement just like I’m supposed to and look at how much I put away!”

If you had these thoughts, I want you to contemplate these thoughts:  (1) If you believe taxes are going to remain the same or go down for you in retirement, it makes sense to fund qualified plans.  But if you believe taxes are going up, you’ve just “kicked the can down the road,” when taxes in retirement will likely be much higher.  Did you really save money?  Frankly, taxes are on sale right now.  (2) You may have been better off funding a tax-free retirement with after-tax dollars, rather than a qualified plan, so that when you go to retire, you’ll have fewer taxes to pay, less fear about tax deadlines, and a simplified tax return.  Starts to make retirement look even better, doesn’t it?  Remember that you have choices about how you earn, invest, and spend your money.

What to eliminate from 31 ideas and what to add

There’s an older article that refers to 31 ideas. I see no reason to replicate it.  Check it out.  There are some great suggestions.

 
Here’s what I would not do (or at least be wary of):

• Make an extra mortgage payment.  This is only worthwhile if you’ve sat down with your financial planner and decided this is actually in your best interests.  It likely isn’t.

• Increase your student loan payment.  Again, only worthwhile if you’ve considered the interest rate, whether you can deduct the interest, and whether it makes sense in your overall financial plan.  Remember, paying off debts is not the same as accumulating assets.

• Seeking a lower interest credit card.  Initiating new credit can bring down your credit score, so if you’re planning to buy a house, this could be a bad idea.  Otherwise, it’s a great idea.

• Be careful about shopping for new home and auto policies.  Make sure that you’re not losing “seniority” at your insurer that you would be giving up should you change companies.

 
Here’s what I applaud and highly recommend:

• Set an automated payment toward your debt.  In this, I’m thinking about the minimum monthly payments.  Make sure those are paid automatically.  Now, you might always pay more or pay them off, but I can’t tell you how many clients thought they were paying ABC Bank for their mortgage but sent the payment to the credit card division and didn’t catch the mistake until they were 30 days late.  Yikes.

• Check your credit report.

• Reread your estate planning documents. Make sure you still agree with them.

• Walk a loved one through your affairs. 

 
Here’s what I would add:

• Call your mortgage broker and see if you can do better on your residential loans.

• See the comment near “Investments and Retirement” about checking out your medical report file from the nationwide consumer reporting agencies.  Like checking your credit report, you may discover mistakes that are causing you money.

• Consider buying long-term care insurance.

 
If we can help you with any of these items or with a referral, please call.

As home loans get harder to obtain, the number of renters increases, and so will rent

Come October 2011, buyers’ purchasing power is will reduce even further:

• The FNMA (Fannie Mae) loan limit will be reduced from $729,000 to $625,500, pushing more buyers into jumbo loans for which there are fewer lenders and consolidators.

• Jumbo loans require 6-12 months of reserves, which is more than FNMA requires.

• Interest rates will likely rise, making qualifying for a loan even harder.

• Mortgage insurance for FHA loans will increase by 30% in April 2011.

• Credit scores are on the decline.

• As home equity has vanished, buyers who want bigger homes will not have the equity from the sale of their current home to put toward the new purchase, which will likely require a 30% down payment.

What does this means?  More people staying in their homes, more people unable to qualify for a loan, more people renting instead of buying.  This is all true before we get to the conversation of the recurring suggestions in Congress that the mortgage interest deduction should be reduced or eliminated.  There are times when it’s good to be a landlord. This is one of them.  And, yes, we do investment property loans, too.  Give us a call.

The decisions are emotional and financial…and not easy

The purpose of long-term care insurance (LTCI) is to provide insurance to pay for your care when you are unable to take care of your basic needs – like eating, toileting, transferring from a bed to chair, etc. – which generally accompanies a debilitating illness that is not life-threatening or at least takes a long time to kill you.  With your basic LTC policy, you pay premiums for life or for 10 years and then receive payments for claims you make to the policy when you need it. If you die without using it, you lose all your premiums. In this way, LTCI is more like your homeowner’s or auto policy.

The first conundrum is that you don’t know whether you’ll ever make a claim on the policy, and these things are getting expensive.  First of all, most people want to believe they’ll be healthy until one night they die in their sleep. No one wants to use the policy benefits.  Once they concede that they might need care, some people believe that this is what their spouse or children are for – to take care of them in old age. Others don’t want to be a burden to their kids, so they want a policy to cover these expenses, which are predicted to be astronomical in the coming decades.  Others want to self-insure, but their kids are worried about losing the family vacation home and want Mom and Dad to have the coverage to the point that the kids will pay for it.  Once you’ve gotten past this decision – to get it or not – now you have to decide what and how much.

The number of insurers remaining in the LTC market continues to decline, so your options are limited. LTCI came on the market and was heralded as this terrific, must-have product, but it has had little history.  There are not many insureds and they’re only starting now to make claims, so there’s little claims history.  What that means is that there is not a lot of statistical data available to create and price the product accurately so that there is enough money available to pay claims. Life insurance is over 200 years old and auto insurance and disability insurance are over 100 years old. Companies selling those products have lots of history and statistics upon which to create and price products. LTCI is about 35 years old at the most – not a lot of history.  As a result, big-name players are getting out (MetLife, John Hancock, Berkshire, etc.).  The questions become: Which company do I use and will it be around?  And if so, is it going to hike the premium on my policy such that I can’t afford it or have to cut back on coverage in the years to come?  As a consumer, it’s hard to tell if what you’re paying for you’re actually going to get. That’s a hard sell.

Then, to make it even more complicated, there are “hybrid” products that are actually life insurance products that provide a LTC benefit rider. If you need to access the death benefit to provide long-term care, you can.  If you don’t use that rider and die, the death benefit pays out to your beneficiary.  This all sounds great until you look at the premiums. Because the over premiums you’ll pay will be bigger, ideally you want the premiums and corresponding death benefit to serve multiple purposes if you can (like estate tax planning or funding a trust). That has its own complications because if you do use the LTC rider and leave little death benefit, that secondary purpose may be thwarted.

The good news, I guess, if there is any is that business owners can get LTCI and get the premiums as a deductible expense. Be sure to ask your accountant about this. It’ll be the easiest question of the bunch.